Mill Creek Lake Overlook

Temps in Kentucky had been below freezing for weeks but finally topped 50°F/10°C. Snow still covered much of the terrain, but the eastern side of the mountains in Red River Gorge had thawed. Tunnel Ridge Road is currently closed for repairs until March 2018, so cars were parked along Hwy 11. We passed them by (suckers!) and headed off-trail on the hunt for scenic views and hidden arches.

As we pulled into the trailhead, I spotted a large wolf-like dog running toward the car. Turned out she was a very friendly, local Siberian Husky. She headed into the woods ahead of us and seemed to know exactly where we wanted to go. It wasn't our intention to hike with her, but she didn't ask permission. Several times we stopped to check the GPS location while she plowed ahead, always waiting for us in the direction we wanted to go. I nicknamed her "Doggie Boone" for her expert knowledge of the backcountry. We learned later that her name is Zowie.

View of Mill Creek Lake. From the vista above, the entire lake looked frozen. Toward the middle, we noticed a meandering path of animal footprints from the shore to the middle of the lake. I have driven past this lake many times on my way to Townsend Mountain, but never seen it from this perspective. There is a dam located near the road beyond Natural Bridge Lodge that creates a little waterfall.

From Mill Creek Lake overlook, we headed back into the woods in search of a nearby arch. Doggie Boone (aka Zowie) took off without us, inherently knowing our next stop. She blazed her way along the edge of the ridge and through loose leaves with a terrifying pace, but never lost her footing.

After verifying we were headed in the right direction via GPS, we followed her through thick rhododendron to Poundstone Arch. Good dog! Dale illustrates the limited height of the arch, which was bounded on both sides by tree covered cliffs. Beyond the arch, one direction led to another ridge view of Natural Bridge State Park; the other headed down the mountain along a cliff with numerous rock caves.

Overlook of Natural Bridge Lodge and Lover's Leap, visible from further north along the same ridgeline. The snow-covered area is Hoedown Island (seriously), with Hwy 11 visible to the right.

Proud to say I spotted this shed antler despite it being buried in the snow and leaves. (Photographed elsewhere.) That was my first indication that I was leading us down a deer trail. Thankfully it all worked out the same as we didn't expect to find any trails on the ridge, and were using GPS for guidance back to the trailhead.

It was so much fun hiking with a knowledgeable, furry guide. Glad she is being well taken care of instead of wandering around on her own in the Gorge. Her owner rolled up on an ATV as soon as we returned to our parking spot and claimed her.

Townsend Mountain Lore

One of my most beloved places in Kentucky is Townsend Mountain, in Daniel Boone National Forest. The mountain is located at the intersection of Powell, Estill & Lee County in Eastern Kentucky, just south of Natural Bridge State Park. It is heavily forested and home to natural arches, rocky vistas, caves, cliffs, beaver pond, and the occasional black bear strolling along Kentucky's longest trail, Sheltowee Trace.

View from White's Branch Arch, Townsend Mountain

Townsend Mountain was first named in 1815 when James Townsend and his Choctaw wife Sukie (Robertson) purchased 10,000 acres of land with a small cabin along the headwaters of Miller's Creek. Their one-room home was in a cleared, flat spot near a large limestone cave where cold & clear Miller's creek spills into short waterfalls, surrounded by the Cumberland Mountains. They kept livestock, grew corn, harvested timber and distilled spirits. James Townsend continued to buy and trade land throughout his lifetime, expanding his holdings to eventually cover 69,000 continuous acres. Under his stewardship, Townsend Mountain became home to future Townsend generations. Each of his children carved out a plot for their own homestead and raised their children nearby.

Looking out from inside Townsend Cave

Sadly, James Townsend's possession of the land ended abruptly when he was murdered by Confederate guerrillas in October 1862. Local and family lore holds that the rag tag bunch believed James, age 72, had silver and other valuable items and would be vulnerable because his sons were all away at war, fighting for the Union. They began an assault on the house, but James held them off with a shotgun. His wife Sukie assisted him after sending the grandchildren to the mountain to hide. She reloaded the rifle for James several times, before being struck in the head by a Confederate shot and killed. James was eventually captured and tortured for the location of his supposed silver fortune. None was found.

These murders were avenged by James' son William "Bad Bill" Townsend, who was notorious for his temper and violent streak. He is described in the Townsend Mountain book as a "whirlwind demon of death and destruction." He killed several men he believed were responsible for the death of his parents; some after luring them to Townsend Cave. The story lives on in this song by local bluegrass band, Kentucky String Ticklers.

Direct Link: https://www.youtube.com/embed/ywbcFm6Cejw

During the last decade of his life, James Townsend had struggled against lumber corporations attempts to dispossess him from his land. After his death, they were successful in their pursuits. James had provided for his children by giving them 100 acres lots, but courthouse fires and changing county lines made it difficult to prove. The family found themselves embattled in a number of lawsuits; fighting for access to roads they had used for decades. They continued to float their timber down the river to market in Clay City, until finally the railroad arrived in 1889 and changed the face of the mountain.

Natural Bridge Historical Postcard. Gilliam Collection, Eva G. Farris Special Collections, W. Frank Steely Library, Northern Kentucky University.

In 1895, the Lexington and Nashville Railroad saw the tourism potential of Natural Bridge and founded a park and lodge. The train made several trips on the weekends, bringing visitors from Lexington to hike and enjoy the natural beauty. The railroad brought the timber boom to epic proportions, leaving most of the area with few trees. Next was the discovery of oil. Sadly, Townsend Mountain did not fare as well as Natural Bridge. It's timber was clear cut and the land eventually leased by oil companies. The tract is now part of the Nature Conservancy and Daniel Boone National Forest, but there are many traces of it's past buried in the forest. The area remains littered with old rigs, rusted barrels and old buildings buried among the trees.

Tourists at Natural Bridge, 1895. University of Kentucky collection.

James Townsend was my great (x4) grandfather and I share his love of Townsend Mountain. I have returned again and again, to hike its various paths and to watch the seasons change. There is still so much to explore! Thanks to the remediation work done by the national forest, Townsend Mountain is once again a woodland respite.

Author (R) posing with Boulder on Townsend Creek

The Townsend Family left behind a voluminous historical records, another great place to explore. Some of the family folklore has been recently re-released in the book Townsend Mountain, available as an e-book on Amazon. However, I've found fun details by patiently flipping by hand through bundles of court records from Estill County. Eventually, I hope to compile my research for publication. The Townsend's were a hardworking, colorful bunch and not afraid to speak their minds! One interesting story is as follows:

Logrolling; Kentucky historical archive image

Joseph Swope v. James Townsend
Estill Court Records 1820
Claim: Assault and Battery

Townsend proclaimed that there was to be no more boasting by Joseph Swope of his logrolling abilities while on Townsend land. Swope continued. Townsend fetched his shotgun and laid it against the side of the house. Swope came into the yard, bragging and such, and Townsend set to striking him. Several witnesses swore to the "whippin." Court finds for Swope.