Searching for Lost Arches Along Rockbridge Fork Creek

Winter in Kentucky is always full of surprises. Temps topped the mid-50s, with threats of rain as we headed into Daniel Boone National Forest for a day of hunting off-trail arches. We did a roll call to make sure everyone had rain ponchos, then dove into the tree cover. Dale had optimistic plans to find five natural arches. Some were considered forest "folklore"; their locations only handwritten estimates from decades old maps of the area.

We began in search of Log Arch, named for its similarity in appearance to a fallen tree in the woods. To locate it, we navigated through rhododendron fields and brier tangles that would be impenetrable any other time of year. Like most of the natural arches in Red River Gorge, Log Arch is only visible when you're standing next to it. We dropped in on it from above but no one felt confident enough to walk on across the top of the narrow ribbon of arch.

Only a short walk away was Little Log Arch, a miniature version of its cousin. Specifications for what can be considered a natural arch are quite detailed. Anything with an opening or length that is less than three feet wide is considered a window, generally. Little Log Arch still qualifies, but it was close. Rock nerds have devised an entire cataloging process that involves careful measuring of the rock opening before it can be classified as an arch. Check out the Natural Bridge & Arch Society for more details.

The valley floor was surprisingly cool, with a significant drop in temperature from the higher elevations where we had started our hike. Ice still bounded both sides of the creek and along the cliffs where water drainage creates occasional waterfalls. We had shed a few layers of clothing while making our way to the creek, but after relaxing and taking a lunch, we had to bundled up again.

From there, we combed the cliffs for a poorly documented arch. We were told its location was a matter of "forest folklore". In order to locate it, the three of us spread out across the cliff side, walking at different levels to conduct a thorough search of the area. Eventually, we came upon a large rock cave that was home to Packrat Arch. The rock cave was incredibly roomy, but we climbed through the arch to find ourselves on the edge of the cliff! Dale hung off the side to get a shot of me with Packrat Arch for scale.

And here's a shot of Dale from my perspective in the arch. 😸

Next we traveled to Fire Hearth Arch, now officially one of my favorite arches at Red River Gorge. The rock cave had a well constructed stacked stone fireplace which had not been used in a long time. It was free from ash. Emily's Arch was a short distance away in the same rock formation. The cave offered views of a deep valley filled with rhododendron and a parallel cliff with several cave openings just visible through the leafless winter trees. We vowed to return to explore the other side of the cliff at some point in the future.

The trip back to the road from the last arch felt like a death march, but was worth the effort. We hiked in silence, using the last of our energy to power back up the mountain without a trail. All in all, we logged about 9 miles but it was all tough going through wilderness. As soon as we reached the car and pulled out of the forest, the rain started to fall. We had really pressed our luck but had a very successful day. Looking forward to returning again soon!

Mill Creek Lake Overlook

Temps in Kentucky had been below freezing for weeks but finally topped 50°F/10°C. Snow still covered much of the terrain, but the eastern side of the mountains in Red River Gorge had thawed. Tunnel Ridge Road is currently closed for repairs until March 2018, so cars were parked along Hwy 11. We passed them by (suckers!) and headed off-trail on the hunt for scenic views and hidden arches.

As we pulled into the trailhead, I spotted a large wolf-like dog running toward the car. Turned out she was a very friendly, local Siberian Husky. She headed into the woods ahead of us and seemed to know exactly where we wanted to go. It wasn't our intention to hike with her, but she didn't ask permission. Several times we stopped to check the GPS location while she plowed ahead, always waiting for us in the direction we wanted to go. I nicknamed her "Doggie Boone" for her expert knowledge of the backcountry. We learned later that her name is Zowie.

View of Mill Creek Lake. From the vista above, the entire lake looked frozen. Toward the middle, we noticed a meandering path of animal footprints from the shore to the middle of the lake. I have driven past this lake many times on my way to Townsend Mountain, but never seen it from this perspective. There is a dam located near the road beyond Natural Bridge Lodge that creates a little waterfall.

From Mill Creek Lake overlook, we headed back into the woods in search of a nearby arch. Doggie Boone (aka Zowie) took off without us, inherently knowing our next stop. She blazed her way along the edge of the ridge and through loose leaves with a terrifying pace, but never lost her footing.

After verifying we were headed in the right direction via GPS, we followed her through thick rhododendron to Poundstone Arch. Good dog! Dale illustrates the limited height of the arch, which was bounded on both sides by tree covered cliffs. Beyond the arch, one direction led to another ridge view of Natural Bridge State Park; the other headed down the mountain along a cliff with numerous rock caves.

Overlook of Natural Bridge Lodge and Lover's Leap, visible from further north along the same ridgeline. The snow-covered area is Hoedown Island (seriously), with Hwy 11 visible to the right.

Proud to say I spotted this shed antler despite it being buried in the snow and leaves. (Photographed elsewhere.) That was my first indication that I was leading us down a deer trail. Thankfully it all worked out the same as we didn't expect to find any trails on the ridge, and were using GPS for guidance back to the trailhead.

It was so much fun hiking with a knowledgeable, furry guide. Glad she is being well taken care of instead of wandering around on her own in the Gorge. Her owner rolled up on an ATV as soon as we returned to our parking spot and claimed her.

Devils Market House Arch

Having spent many weeks in the field with the guys, I decided to try my own hand at arch hunting in Daniel Boone National Forest. I headed to Menifee County in Eastern Kentucky for my first solo run. I began by walking along old county roads which have long been decommissioned, and are now simply dirt trails. Using GPS, I was able to locate two large arches in close proximity to each other but not without getting turned around once or twice.


Devil's Market House Arch


Devil's Market House Arch is certainly unique, as it stands isolated from any cliff or ridge. It appears to have dropped from the sky, arising seemingly from no where in the middle of the forest. Perhaps that unexplained element is how the arch was given its name. Each angle of the Devil's Market House presents a new view and myriad smaller arches and windows, making it very fun to explore.

Posing from the other side of Devil's Market


Although spring flowers were still scant, many butterflies were enjoying the warm temperatures and gentle breeze. I was thrilled to see several enormous butterflies, about the size of my hand, floating around the rocky outcropping. For a while, they followed me along the trail.

Yellow Tiger Striped Swallowtail

View of the Cumberland Mountains, from above the arch.


A rookie day in the field is not without mistakes, of course. Initially, I walked far beyond where I should have turned off trail believing that the Devil's Market Place would be visible from the old road. GPS cleared that up quickly. Harder to find was Sprat's Arch. I nearly gave up, deciding that the the view of the mountains from the peak was as good as it was going to get on this trip. Then I realized I was standing on top of the arch!

Sprat's Arch

Posing for scale

National Forest Boundary


Although I found two large arches, there were several others nearby. I had the coordinates roughly translated, but couldn't get my topographic maps to line up. Had I been more patient with myself, I'm certain I could have found them. As it is, I have another challenge for a return trip.

Colby Cumberland surveying Devil's Market Place

Cherokee Arch and Surrounds

It was a beautiful spring day on our last team hike in the Gorge. Skies were cloudy, but temperatures were above average and reached a high of 77°F/25°C. The weather was comfortable enough for t-shirts, which sadly means the camping crowds were also making their first appearance. Snakes are sure to follow, so we will have to wait until fall for more off-trail adventures. Thankfully, our last day together in the field was a good one.

Lost Camp Arch

Conglomerate stone layers at Mushroom Arch


Cherokee Arch was the largest of the arches we visited, seeming to hover like a heavenly staircase over a massive rock cave. Water splashes down from above, making a slight waterfall effect when viewed from the below. Massive boulders make wonderful impromptu tables for a snack or packed lunch. We spent our time shooting photos and shooting the shit.

Cherokee Arch

Peppered around the surrounding area is a collection of rock windows. Rock windows are smaller openings in the rock, not large enough to be considered an arch. The inartfully named Rat Windows run the gambit from easily accessible to requiring a rope and harness. We were able to approach some, while having to be satisfied by spotting another from a distance on a neighboring cliff.

Rat Window #1

Climbing through the window


As the leaves return to the trees, and the sticker bushes start to branch out, going off trail in the Gorge becomes much more difficult. And that's not even taking into consideration the return of the snakes from their winter hibernation. Or ticks. Or bears? Either way, the season for serious arch hunting is almost at a close. Thanks to my buddy Dale for taking us out into the woods to discover some beautiful and amazing things.

"Yeah, probably should go around. It's nothing but thicket through here." Haha! Sure thing, boss.

Searching for more arches...

Star Gap Arch and Beyond

This week the hiking team visited Star Gap Arch and Arch of Triumph, two of the dozens of natural rock arches in Red River Gorge located beyond the official trails. Some arches are more accessible than others and these were along somewhat visible trails among a maze of switchbacks, campsite spurs, and dead ends. Good backcountry skills are required and sometimes so is the occassional cliffside scramble. Some trails go directly over the rock arch following the top of the sandstone ridgeline, while never revealing there is an arch hiding underneath.

View from underneath Star Gap Arch

Couple and their dog resting under Star Gap Arch

We left early in the morning and saw the mountains appear through a thick fog. The fog eventually cleared from the valleys but the clouds stuck around. Sometimes the sun would come out for a bit and the air would immediately warm up only to disappear again as soon as I'd removed my top layer of clothing. Thankfully we kept moving so the chill wasn't too bad.

Star Gap Arch across the valley and through the fog

The trail to Arch of Triumph is a good example of where a hiker could miss an arch. The trail runs along the top of the cliffline, and over the sandstone of the arch. Even from a view further along the trail, the arch can easily be missed. This image shows the Arch of Triumph, which will be even easier to miss once the leaves return to the trees.

The trail looking onto the cliff and easy to miss arch.

Arch of Triumph is only a few feet high.

Sitting in a rock window

In the afternoon, we moved on to another area of the national forest and set out along a rarely used trail. We had to drop down to the very bottom of the valley to reach Black John Arch and Spout. From our approach, the arch looked like a door-sized keyhole in the rock. However, after walking down and through the opening, the arch is revealed and was quite large. The cliffline continues and leads to a rock window named Black John Spout. It was one of the most interesting arches we visited, but sadly we weren't able to linger. I hope to return in a few weeks, but definitely by a different route with less cliff scrambles. I couldn't have made it to the arch without a helpful boost up and down a few cliffs. Thankfully we had a good team that assisted everyone in the difficult sections.

Below Black John Arch

Cliff looking back on Black John Arch. Note the people for scale.

Black John Spout Arch

Colby Cumberland surveys the rockwall at Star Gap Arch